There's a Sydney import bringing community spirit (and killer goat curry) to Fitzroy, a vibrant bar and bistro that puts Ghanaian spirits in your cocktails and more.
Victoria is home to Australia's largest Ethiopian population, so it makes sense that many of Melbourne's oldest African restaurants represent the cuisine and culture of the Horn of Africa, a region to the east of the continent .
But in the post-Covid years, a new wave of West African restaurants have brought food from countries like Nigeria and Ghana to Melbourne's suburbs, following in the footsteps of Nigerian restaurant Adonai, which opened in 2017.
Increasingly popular in Melbourne are quintessential West African dishes such as jollof rice, flavored and reddened with tomatoes; and fufu, a doughy dough ball – made from yam, cassava, banana or cocoyam, depending on the country – that is broken open with one hand and dipped into soups and stews.
But there are many more regional specialties to discover. We highlight five recently opened West African restaurants and ask their owners: What's your must-try dish?
Little Lagos, Fitzroy
The success of Nigerian restaurant Little Lagos in Sydney and spin-off Lekki in Brisbane led owner Adetokunboh “Ade” Adeniyi to bring the brand to Melbourne earlier this year. It pops up at Rose Street's Oko Rooftop on weekends until Adeniyi can find a more permanent home there.
“There was a massive show by the African community [at the launch]” says Adeniyi. But her mission is as much about offering a taste of home as it is about sharing the beauty of all things West African with those who may not be as familiar with them.
“If you walk into Little Lagos in Sydney, you'll think you're in the wrong place – our customer demographic is about 50% Asian, 40% Caucasian and 10% African,” he says. “That's the point … We want everyone to be in each other's space.”
Essential dish: marinated goat stew ($30). “We call it the GOAT, or the greatest of all time,” says Adeniyi. The most popular dish on the menu, its success depends on the thick and aromatic sauce of sizzling tomatoes, red peppers, habaneros and onions.
Open from Saturday to Sunday from 4pm to 9pm
60 Rose Street, Fitzroy, instagram.com/alittlelagos
Edziban, Kensington
Since last year, Ghanaian couple Angelina Dampson and her husband Papa Kwamena have been working to win over the North West with their Kensington bar and bistro Edziban, a bright green beacon on Racecourse Road. “[It’s] inspired by traditional Ghanaian cuisine, vibrant markets and warm hospitality,” says Dampson.
Hearty, homemade dishes are flavored mainly with spices imported from West Africa. And the best way to sample widely is to order from the sharing-style platter menu. Most of the signature cocktails are complemented with Ghanaian-made spirits, such as the Alomo Gyata, which combines Alomo bitters, passion fruit puree and pineapple juice. And the pair also host regular bottomless Afrobrunch Sundaze events with rocking DJ sets.
Essential dish: Empress Edziban ($29/$45). “It's a favorite of all fish lovers,” says Dampson. The crispy fried fish is served with a flavorful rice filled with chunks of fish, a “trade secret” blend of Ghanaian spices and local herbs, plus two hot sauces.
Open Tuesday to Thursday from 5pm to 9pm; Friday-Sunday noon-9.30pm
307 Racecourse Road, Kensington, edzibanbarbistro.com.au
Akwaaba, St Kilda
When Akwaaba opened at the beach end of Fitzroy Street in late 2021, it was one of the first of the recent arrivals of West African restaurants in Melbourne. Aptly, the name means “welcome” in the Twi language of the Akan people in Ghana, where owner Ahmed Inusah is from.
In three years, he's built a community with his Ghanaian soups and stews, weekly live African music and hearty hospitality that put curious diners at ease. “A lot of people see it [dishes] on social media and want to try them, so we help,” says Inusah. “Fufu has gone ballistic.”
Tradition is woven into the fabric of Akwaaba. “But as we move forward, I want to create more of a fusion between Western food and my traditional herbs and spices,” says Inusah. Their cheese arancini balls, made with jollof rice and mozzarella, are a preview of what's to come.
Essential dish: suya stock tray ($98). Eaten throughout West Africa, “suya is basically spiced grilled street meat,” says Inusah. “We serve a mixture of different meats, all with our spices, on a large plate with kelewele [marinated fried plantains].”
Open Wednesday from 3 to 9 p.m.; Thursday noon-9 p.m.; Fri-Sun noon-10pm
29 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda, akwaabarestaurantandbar.com.au
Zuya, various places
Suya, or West African barbecue, is the name of the game at Zuya (formerly Tasty Suya) by Cameroonian Leo Chofor. It started as a pop-up before Chofor set up shop in Spotswood Grazeland Food Market, where the brand remains, and then opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Caroline Springs. You'll also find Zuya on Wednesdays at Queen Victoria Market Night Market.
It all revolves around a secret spice rub passed down by Chofor's grandfather. The various meats are marinated in spices for 48 hours before being grilled over wood and charcoal, giving them a unique smoky and spicy flavor, best accompanied by afrobeats.
Essential dish: chef's plate ($125). A Zuya signature, ideally enjoyed among a few people, is a combination of marinated beef, chicken and lamb, with beef sausages made from a recipe handed down for a few generations. Served with a fresh pepper salad.
218-222 Caroline Springs Boulevard, Caroline Springs; 20 Booker Street,
spotswood, zuya.com.au
Ama's Delights, multiple locations
“Growing up in a small mining town in Ghana, almost every dinner was fun,” says Mame Ama Lordia Baidoo, owner of Melbourne's Ama's Delights food truck. “We [would] meet when the food [was] ready… everyone's excitement so ready for it.”
Ama's Delights offers this and other West African soul dishes she grew up eating, such as Red Red, a (vegan) Ghanaian bean stew made with black-eyed beans and gari (shredded dried cassava ). It's a regular at Queen Victoria Market, but the food truck is also stationed at the Firelight Festival in Docklands from June 28-30. A permanent restaurant is soon to open at Spotswood's Union Center development.
Essential dish: jollof rice with suya chicken ($24). “This dish is eaten everywhere in my country [and] it's basically rice cooked in a flavor-packed tomato stew,” says Baidoo.
amasdelightfoods.com.au
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